Today marks a significant milestone in mountaineering history as we commemorate the 45th anniversary of Andrej Štremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik's historic ascent of Mount Everest. In 1979, these two Slovenian climbers etched their names in the annals of alpinism by becoming the first Slovenians to conquer the world's highest peak.

Two days later, Stane Belak, Croatian Stipe Božić, and Sherpa leader Ang Phu also reached the summit. Since then, many Slovenians have scaled Everest, conquering many different routes, including one first ascent, the first female ascent, an ascent without supplemental oxygen, and the first ski descent from the summit. This remarkable achievement places Slovenia at the forefront of Himalayan mountaineering.

In the early 1970s, a new era of climbing began in the Himalayas. Climbers shifted their focus from seeking the most optimal routes to tackling challenging walls and ridges. Slovenian climbers were well-prepared for this shift. In 1975, under the leadership of Tone Škarja, we achieved a breakthrough ascent of the southern wall of Makalu, the fifth highest peak in the world. This route placed us among the Himalayan elite.

Motivated by this success, we set our sights on Everest, planning to ascend via a new route - the unclimbed west ridge. Our decision to attempt this challenging route epitomized the essence of high-altitude mountaineering. Despite the formidable challenges, including harsh weather, high winds, and oxygen depletion, our team persevered.

On May 13, 1979, Andrej Štremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik reached the summit of Everest at 13:51 local time, marking a historic moment for Yugoslavian mountaineering. Their achievement ignited a wave of enthusiasm in our homeland. Communication with our country was limited at the time, but the support we received through radio transmissions fueled our determination.

While our success was cause for celebration, it was not without its challenges. Tragically, Sherpa Ang Phu lost his life during the descent, reminding us of the dangers inherent in high-altitude mountaineering. Despite this loss, our team's accomplishment inspired subsequent expeditions to attempt our route.

Since then, numerous expeditions have tried to replicate our route, but only two have succeeded. However, these attempts were marred by tragedy, underscoring the difficulty of Everest's west ridge. Despite the risks, our legacy on Everest endures, with our route recognized as one of the most challenging of the eleven ascents to date.

As we reflect on this historic achievement, we honor the courage, determination, and spirit of exploration that drove us to conquer Everest's west ridge. Our legacy continues to inspire climbers worldwide, and we remain committed to pushing the boundaries of mountaineering.

Join us in celebrating this momentous occasion and the enduring legacy of Slovenian mountaineering. With Alpina by your side, you're ready to conquer any summit!

Foto: Andrej Štremfelj